Fortunately I live in a nice quiet subdivision on 1/3 of an acre at an elevation of 218 feet, on the NW slope of a 260 foot hill overlooking a good sized lake with no HOA/CC&R nonsense. Though I'm on a hill I have wetlands on the east and west side of my property, with the surface soil type consisting of black muck underlain by red clay, with a high water table. So this QTH is a pretty good location for vertical antennas.

That was the good news, now the bad. I have seven oak trees on the property and of course there is the house which sit's in the middle of the property. So there is no room for individual antennas on all bands between 160 and two meters.

That situation led to the 80-10 meter fan doublet antenna. It is a four wire element antenna made out of black UV resistant double coated plastic stranded #14 wire. It is fed with 122 feet of high quality #18 gauge stranded hard drawn copper 300 ohm window/ladder feed line.

I call the antenna a doublet (a very old antenna term) instead of a dipole, as the antenna has two 1/4 elements for each band like a conventional dipole, but is not self resonant like a conventional dipole. But for all intents and purposes a dipole and doublet are the same beast.

The antenna consists of the following:

A 134 foot 1/2 wave element for 80 meters, which is also a 3 quarter wave element on 60 meters, a 3 half wave element on 30 meters and a 7 half wave element on 12 meters,

A 67 foot half wave element for 40 meters, which is also a double extended zepp on 17 meters and a 3 half wave element on 15 meters,

A 33 foot half wave element for 20 meters.

A 16.7 foot half wave element for 10 meters.

It's up at 35 feet on a Rohn telescoping push up pole broadside NNE-SSW and is tuned by my link coupled balanced Johnson Viking Match Box (275 watt carrier/1100 watt PEP).

You may ask why I am using four wire elements instead of one for all band coverage. like with the classic single wire all band dipole?! It's all about takeoff angle. If you have a single wire of say 134 feet which would be a 1/2 wave on 80 meters, on 40 meters it would have a high takeoff angle and not be very useful for DXing. However a 67 foot wire which is a 1/2 wave on 40 meters and up at 50 feet would have a lower takeoff angle and more useful for working DX.

Of course though that is what EZNEC 5.0 modeling says is happening but I can't be totally sure. But so far I'm having some really good results working DX with the antenna.

You may also ask why I'm using #18 gauge stranded hard drawn copper 300 ohm window line (450-600 ohm is perfectly acceptable also) instead of ~50 ohm coaxial cable like RG-8X, etc. to feed the antenna? With a fan dipole antenna it is extremely difficult to get all of the elements to self resonate on the center frequency of choice, due to mutual coupling interaction, also the band with is also pretty narrow. So one ends up having to use a tee network tuner to QSY around the bands, which introduces losses.

With the inherent low RF signal loss that 300 ohm window line possesses you can ignore all of the above state reasons. Also if you use a link coupled balanced Johnson Viking Match Box antenna tuner (or any balanced antenna tuner) like I do you end up with a low loss, lower QRN antenna system with the flexibility to QSY anywhere you want to operate on each band.